Intake

Salut
C`est quoi comme moteur?

moi j ai remplis intake avec du jb weld ca se vend chez canadien tirelire et je met 2 tole a mes gasket pareil ah oui j ai remplis aussi trou avec des assiete aluminium avant jb weld qui est bon pour 500 degree

http://www.jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php

ces pas chere 8 $ je pense et oui apres 24 heure sa se sable

A lire attentivement

EGR Injectors
Over time the EGR injector tubes at the bottom of the intake manifold bores become clogged with carbon, and result in engine pinging that cannot be tuned out without a good loss of power. The carbon must be cleaned out to get rid of the pinging and tune the engine properly.

Remove EGR, remove carb, get a 3/8" or 5/16" drill bit and drill through the EGR tube extensions gently down till hit the manifold floor. Olds and Cadillac (from the 4.9L V-8) do not recommend you removing the EGR Tubes. I have seen them ready to fall through the manifold floor, so if you choose to, be cautious. If you can, run a piano wire through the tubes till it comes out of the EGR valve mount. Run it around and try to get as much clear as you can. I did not have the piano wire, I just blew out the carbon buildup, and reassembled. Mine runs great now. I did this on my 1985 307, and on the junkyard A4 intake I bought (from 82 307). After 6 months after I cleaned the 1982 intake, I removed and there was a small amount of carbon building up again. Not enough to restrict flow, but enough to warrant a 2 year cleaning interval (probably your own 30K EGR service).

The 307 engine is very sensitive to EGR flow, even a 50% reduction is enough to cause pinging headaches. Your car should run fine on 87 octane fuel. Mine with 50% blockage still pinged on 93 octane. With the timing set a 20 degrees as factory specified.

Do not use oven cleaner, it is caustic and will erode the aluminum intake manifold! Use the above procedure, it is best and last longer than any cleaner can do!

Do not fear removing carb, tag everything, take your time. You will have it off in about 30 minutes. DO get a line wrench, 5/8" and ½". The 5/8" I would call mandatory, the ½" is optional. The rear vacuum line is the ½".

When done, torque the carb to manifold no more than 16 ft lbs., I think 10-16 ft lbs. is spec. You can easily warp the carb beyond use by not heeding this! Also, Olds recommends retorqing the carb every 6 months in the 1976 Olds Service Manual.

[ Thanks to Thomas Martin for this information. ]

Filling the Exhaust Crossover
I melt old cast pistons in a flea market cast iron skillet. I lay the head intake side down on a steel plate, and preheat the head to 150° F. I pour the molten aluminum into a little fixture [trough] made from 1X1 angle iron that I stick into one of the bowls. I pour it in until it runs out both bowls. I've done several sets of heads, and the cast aluminum has held up well, even on daily drivers.

On a former daily driver [79 toro w/77 403] I wanted a little heat for the carb, so I inserted a piece of 1/2" e.m.t. [conduit] into one of the bowls on one head. I stuck the conduit down through one bowl, and let it stick up out of the bowl, while i poured through the other bowl. Once i poured, I was able to grind down through the aluminum on the intake side, and find the end of the conduit. A bit of grinding was needed to cut of the section sticking into the bowl. This way I had a little heat from one exhaust port going to the carb area.

On my 64 Cutlass[461"] I cut my exhaust side back .175". This was enough to create a gasket area apx .125" wide between the center ports.

Optional -You can also grind the roof higher until you have only about .1875" from the top of the port to the top [outside] surface of the head. This makes it harder to match the header, but it will help flow, as it takes some of the downhill slope out of the roof. You can slot the bolt holes on the header with a die grinder, or weld them shut/redrill to raise the header up to help the port match the header.

BTW, Dave Smith once told me that pouring the heat risers and cutting the exhaust side back/raising the roof is worth 40 hp on a 455. The best part is it gets rid of that sh*tty Olds/Pontiac exhaust sound.

[ Thanks to Dave Brode for this information. ]

question: pourquoi boucher les trou??

en plus simple sa sert a rechauffer intake pour hivers aussi certain choke prenne leur chaleur la et aussi a faire fonctionner egr valve


mais si tu sert pas de ton auto hivers sa peu donner de 10 a 25 hp et eviter la percolation car ton carbu va se tenir plus froid

remarque que toute tete haute performance ont pas cet passe

pis pour chrysler big block ya des valley pan qui sont deja boucher de marque fel pro.

ca se vends pas des gasket sans ses trou la?? tk ca existe pour les 302 sans...

Quand on change la tete sur un Jeep ( tete de 4.0 sur un 4.2 ) , il faut boucher des trous aussi , et apparement les gars font ca avec du JB Weld pareil .

http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=24

Juste à aller dans le catalogue de Fel-Pro preformance et il y a des gaskets d intake pas de trou pour la passe en dessous du carburateur.Juste à vérifier la grosse des trous pour les runners d'intake parce qu'il en a pour les intakes et têtes stock et pour les modifiés. Pour un 350 Chevy avec des têtes et une intake stock çà prend un gasket P/N:1205 ou aller voir sur l'adresse : www.jegs.com/p/Fel-Pro/Fel-Pro-Intake-Manifold-Gaskets/746656/10002/-1 çà donne une bonne idée du numéro de pièces.